Friday, December 30, 2011

In the spirit of Aloha

We've already arrived at our last day in this magical place of Hawaii and in the spirit of Aloha I write this post. Knowing that today is our last day, knowing that tomorrow is New Year's Eve, I woke with a sense of reflection.
The spirit of Aloha...
"Aloha is being a part of all, and all being a part of me. When there is pain - it is my pain. When there is joy - it is also mine. I respect all that is as part of the Creator and part of me. I will not willfully harm anyone or anything. When food is needed I will take only my need and explain why it is being taken. The earth, the sky, the sea are mine to care for, to cherish and to protect. This is Hawaiian - this is Aloha!"
It was in June of this year that we all made the reservations for this trip, Fuad & I along with my parents. You see, we had decided to move to Chiang Mai, and we knew that my parents & I would need something to look forward to, a time and place where we knew we would see each other again. Hawaii being a mid-way point, Christmas break being the time, meant that it would be right around my parents 39th wedding anniversary and since they spent their honeymoon in Hawaii 39 years ago...Hawaii it was.
This has been a much anticipated trip. A few weeks ago I stated that really it could have been anywhere in the world, I was just so excited to see my parents...but I'm glad it was here. This island is magical and by far the best State in the US! One night at dinner we all listed the islands we have been to, (Roume, off the coast of Guinea, West Africa, Bali, Koh Samui, Mykonos...) and I find that they all have similarities...island life is laid back, island life usually involves lots of sunshine & shoreline views and contemplation while the sun sinks into a massive body of water. Islanders smile a lot and have a deeper connection to nature, there is a sense of respect for the natural beauty surrounding you and I am in love with all of that!
So, this morning I wake and I remember that it's our last day here in this magical place with my parents, I sit in the sun and remember that the end of 2011 draws near...I give thanks for the many blessings in my life and this amazing journey 2011 has been.

Monday, December 19, 2011

Chatuchak Bangkok Weekend Market

Looking for something?...How about some puppies, doggies, kittens, cats, rabbits, ducks, owls, pet squirrel ? Chinese fighting fish? How about a prize winning cock, snake, turtle, lizard? Need supplies to set up an entire aquarium, including maggots and larvae to feed the fish? They've got that too! Hungry from all your shopping? How about some deep fried frogs & insects? Fresh coconut, smoothies, any kind of Thai food, including a papaya salad made to order while you shop.
Can you say JEANS? Shoes, sandals, sneakers, hand made leather shoes. Leather goods, belts, wallets, purses, bags...knock off everything. Need some light bulbs? How about a zip drive? Rugs, sheets, furniture, antique Buddha relics? (I'm really only tipping the iceberg here.) Don't have enough scarves? Wraps, scarves, pashmina, sarongs...incense, essential oils, candles, art, handicrafts, wood carvings! Any garment you can think of made tie-dye (a personal favorite of mine) fishermen pants, Hill tribe crafts, silver, gems, BEADS & BEADS & piles of BEADS!
I'm exhausted just remembering everything that we saw!
Chatuchak, the weekend market in Bangkok is one of the worlds largest weekend markets! We saw the massiveness from the train, but I had no idea what I was in store for...within 27 acres of stalls & vendors is a city of narrow, winding paths and more than once we lost our bearing and ended up out on the sidewalk, once in the parking lot and a couple times we past stalls which we had already passed.
So we had a snack...and sat watching as women shopped for scarves...which was when I was able to articulate my new appreciation for the scarf. They are so much more functional than to simply keep your neck warm!
After stumbling upon a choir of Thai folks wearing Santa hats while singing Feliz Navidad in Spanish & English (in a predominately Buddhist country mind you...) we decided to head home.
Our haul for the day...
2 pairs of fisherman pants
1 small wind chime
7 pairs of earrings (gifts)
Citronella incense & ylang ylang essential oil (my favorite)
1 top & pants (for me)
It's confirmed once again, I love shopping!

These were some of the first puppies we stumbled on...just days old!

I think these are maggots? They were for sale near the fish & bird & reptile section, yuck!

I don't think I've ever seen such mature owls this close, it was sad because there was 3 of them tied up in a very small room which also had about 4 people in it watching television.

Mature lizard for sale.

Bags & bags & bags of all kinds of fish for sale.

I've never seen anyone with a pet squirrel, have you?

Prize winning Cock.

Stall-side papaya salad making, yum!

I think I forgot to mention live and silk plants/flowers for sale as well.

And of course... the clothes, beautiful & unique.

Hard to shop with so many shoes & people crammed into such a small space!

Exhausted from shopping & heat, we wait for the train after our adventure!


Monday, December 12, 2011

To everything there is a season...

We're quickly approaching the 5 month mark.
In the back of my mind, December has been kind of a milestone. I think this is because one of my colleagues, who was new to Thailand last year, told me that in December she started to feel normal, like settled in and I've been looking forward to that.
Living here where everyday is pretty much the same, I've become completely aware of how I have marked the passage of time throughout my life by the shift of seasons...
leaves change color, warmer clothes come out of the closet, snow falls, Holidays occur, snow melts, days get longer, flowers bloom, school gets out, swimsuits on at the beach, repeat...
But here, fall never came & neither has winter. (At least my idea of winter!) Don't get me wrong, there have been changes in the weather, but since I've never lived through an entire "rainy season" I don't have a feel for the context just yet. It has stopped raining and the evenings & night-time are cool, but it's still piping hot during the day (again, I don't have context, apparently piping hot will be relative when I experience my first hot season in the late spring.)
So maybe it's the "sameness" (each day with a little bit of cool & a little bit of hot & sunny)...and that's why it never really felt like Halloween, or Thanksgiving...and even though I just completed the Christmas Concert at school, it doesn't really feel like Christmas either (even with horrible recordings of Christmas music everywhere!) It's in December that winter usually starts to show itself, when I've always felt burdened down by the thought of having to endure another dark, cold, depressing season of snow. My yearning for that "settled in" feeling combined with the knowledge that snow will not be part of my winter experience this year made me turn over the calendar and welcome December!
I also welcomed December because I get to see my parents! We are meeting in Hawaii (where they had their honeymoon) just a few days after their 39th wedding anniversary, but really it could have been anywhere in the world...I'm more excited about seeing my parents then I am about seeing Hawaii, even though I've always wanted to go there!

And it's true, I am feeling here, now, present, settled in...but I still woke up the other day, opened my eyes and said to myself, "I live in Thailand now" and I smiled as I said it.

This tree in our yard was blooming on Thanksgiving Day.

Also on Thanksgiving Day, I discovered poinsettias for sale,
I have 2 planted in our flower box with another one on the way.
We bought a hammock and transformed our front porch space into a delightful seating area, Baxter & I hang out there often in the evenings now.
It's one of my new favorite things about our house here.
This guy burrowed himself into our yard, I only saw him because he was near the hose.
I became totally fascinated with him, he stayed there for almost a week!
I haven't seen him lately :(

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Everyday discoveries

I went for an adventure yesterday after having lunch with some friends from school. I drove out to where I had heard about some "factories", I would call them workshops. Here I got to see a weaver working outside a clothing store. Outside the shop there were about 8 looms set up to make the garments which were for sale inside. They even had pictures of the King and his family wearing their garments!

I also discovered an umbrella workshop. This was one of my favorites.

There was so many different designs!

Here you see one of the many stages an umbrella goes through before completion. I couldn't believe how much work goes into making one umbrella.


Outside the shop.

I also visited the silver factory, but didn't take any pictures...next time. I plan to head back to this area soon, there was also a silk factory that I didn't get to check out!


My friend Yara, who teaches Kindergarten at CMIS, helped me strap my guitar on the back of Perry this week. This is a great discovery for me! I needed to take my guitar to the repair shop.


On Thanksgiving Day I noticed that poinsettia plants have shown up at the flower shops! This made me so happy because my parents always have poinsettia plants around the house during this time of year. These plants remind me of home...I bought one (it was about $1!!!) and planted it in our flower box in front of our house.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Death & Gratitude: Our First Thanksgiving In Thailand

Sometimes clarity hits you when you're not looking for it, and the veils fall away and you see things in a stark and unfiltered light. Today was powerful. Beyond the marvelous Thanksgiving meal we shared with an amazing group of people, we had some realizations that really emphasized what it means to be grateful for the gift of life... It's funny how sometimes the journey to the destination might be more important than the destination itself...

We spent much of the day looking forward to sharing Thanksgiving dinner with friends at the Eubanks home past Mae Jo University. At 5 pm we peeled out of our neighborhood in a caravan, with Sue & Freeman & Aka in the car in front, Lizzie on her motorcycle behind them, and Becky and I on our scooter in the back. We hadn't anticipated anything too exciting, just a 20 minute drive into the country and then a nice Turkey dinner. But the universe sometimes has plans of its own...

On our way to dinner the traffic was horrendous, with cars and scooters driving bumper to bumper as far as the eye could see. We soon saw why, as we happened upon an accident with cops waving us past what looked to be a minor collision between a couple of vehicles that didn't look too serious. It looked like someone got rear-ended pretty hard, which is a common enough occurrence on any well-traveled stretch of road, and no one appeared to be hurt and the vehicles didn't look badly damaged. A couple miles further down the same road, we came across a second accident, and this one left a much deeper impression. Two motorcycles were sitting on their sides in the far left lane, and on the side of the road someone was lying in the gravel, with their arms cradling their skull and their legs splayed out and moving languidly as the torso twisted and writhed on the ground. No blood, but the body twisting on the earth was clearly in serious pain. Damn. Becky kept driving and as we pulled up next to Liz at the next light we exchanged glances. That was scary. It's never a good thing to drive past broken bones and busted rides, and all of us started to feel a creeping sense of unease. Let's get off this highway asap...

Right as we were getting ready to turn off the main highway, the traffic suddenly got a lot worse, with cars clogging every lane and people suddenly appearing on every available stretch of roadside. Something was wrong. Cops were up ahead at the intersection waving cars past with a tangible sense of urgency and irritation, and we noticed right away that they weren't letting us turn where we needed to go. Then we saw it. A huge industrial cargo truck, an 18-wheel behemoth carrying heavy piles of construction material beneath dirty brown tarps had been stopped 50 feet past the intersection. Beneath its front wheels, crumbled into a flat heap of barely recognizable metal, was the chassis and frame of a small scooter. All around it, people were taking pictures.

The cops waved us past, and as we drove past our turn we looked to the right and saw a tattered white sheet sitting in the road covering up something unidentifiable, surrounded by big puddles of liquid. In a second it came into focus. A mangled hand lay under the white sheet, and what looked like a torso ripped to pieces, possibly severed from the lower body. The dark splotches on the pavement weren't oil or water, but a huge pool of fresh blood, scattered over a wide radius. Someone had just died here, in the most violent way imaginable, and we had happened on the scene within minutes of the collision. We saw the remains, the crushed steel, and all the blood, but before the shock could really register, we had driven past the intersection.

As the traffic slowed, we pulled up to a light and took stock of what we'd just passed. "Did you see that?" Lizzie and Becky exchanged a heavy look. Up ahead, Sue was preparing for a U-turn, which means we'd have to drive by the whole mess again. We waited, found a gap in the traffic, and followed Sue as she turned around and headed back to the intersection. As it neared you could see the crowds of shell-shocked college students gathered on the sidewalks, the cars slowing down to rubberneck, and more cops arriving. Thankfully our line of sight was cut off, and we turned left at the intersection and left the whole sordid scene behind us...

...It's not everyday that you see a fresh corpse in front of you, pouring blood out onto the pavement at your feet. The body was probably still warm, maybe even hot from the flesh melting in the collision. Death puts all things in perspective. Life is short, fleeting, and precious, and ultimately we all end up leaving behind these bodies we so briefly inhabit. When you are forced to confront your own mortality, by staring at a human life spread across the street in front of you, you realize how petty and irrelevant so many of our worries really are. Every moment is a gift, and every day is an opportunity to live fully, and this attitude infuses the passage of time with a certain purpose-driven urgency. Why waste a moment when death is looming? Why live your life afraid of anything? Life goes by too quickly to spend it catering to anything but your highest potential. Speak your truth, say your piece, dance with abandon, eat with relish, and cherish the ones who share your journey. We spend so much time worried about things we can't control. We can control how we spend the time we have, and what we do with the blessings we've been given...
____________________________________________
...Dinner at the Eubanks' home was lovely. Sue's parents Allan and Joan have been in Chiang Mai for over 50 years, and are highly respected community elders who have led incredible, impactful lives here. They've done amazing work, they know wonderful people, and they are among the most gracious and loving hosts we've met in the few short months we've been here. We were welcomed into their home with open arms, shared a sublime meal with close to 30 amazing friends of the family, and offered up our gratitude along with a group of people who have a lot to be thankful for. Many of the people we ate with were people doing Christian mission work, a number were teachers, and many were a part of the Free Burma Rangers team, a fantastic organization doing important work with people in Myanmar. It was a joy and an inspiration to share our first Thanksgiving in Thailand with such an amazing group of people, and we are grateful for our new home, our new friends, the communities we are a part of here, and the larger group of people we consider family all over the world....

We are living a charmed life, and we are eternally grateful and humble before all the grace continually bestowed on us everywhere we go. We hope you are too...

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Clearing up some misconceptions...



I practice yoga. I have been practicing yoga for about 6 years now and this practice became so important to me that in 2008 I made the commitment to complete a year long rigorous teacher training program at Moksha Yoga Center in Chicago. This year of immersion into the study & teachings of yoga changed my life, I met my husband there, for which I am eternally grateful, but I also acquired knowledge that forever changed my perceptions of the world around me & my interactions with it.
Shortly after arriving here in Chiang Mai I realized that people have misconceptions about this practice, including why it's called "practice", and it's not just people here, it's people back home too, including members of my own family. I've been sitting on this for awhile...because where do you start to describe something so precious to folks who have never experienced it?

I started practicing yoga back in 2005. I went through a transition when I looked in the mirror one day and realized that I had gotten fat. I needed to loose weight and I needed to change my lifestyle & eating habits. I bought a membership to a gym because I figured unless I was paying for it, I wouldn't go. I was borderline obsessed with going to the gym and loosing weight. I was lifting weights, using the stair climber, treadmill and going once a week to an hour long yoga class. I started to really look forward to this weekly class, where I saw the same people attend week after week with the occasional newcomer (which tended to throw everyone off). The group of regulars became casual friends. I was starting to love yoga and after attending for just over a year, I approached the teacher, whose name is Maria, and asked if we could meet for a coffee to talk about yoga teacher training. As someone who chose teaching as my career path, it seemed like the next logical step for me. We met and Maria highly recommended the teacher training program that she completed at Moksha Yoga Center. She communicated that it was a challenging program, that it required a high level of commitment, but that it was one of the best decisions she had made. She recommended that I buy a class package and start practicing there to check it out. I was sold, I went home & looked up the program, budgeted how I would pay for it and bought a class package.
When I started practicing yoga, I did it because it felt good. I liked how I felt while I was in class and I loved how I felt after class.
When I started the teacher training program I started to learn why it felt so good. I also discovered that I had a lot to learn. I felt I was considerably behind my peers in my lack of knowledge regarding the history of yoga, I knew almost no Sanskrit and anatomy was a guessing game...but I did have committment and a strong work ethic (two skills I'm grateful to have learned from my parents). Then slowly with time & dedication, I learned what I needed to learn.
Yoga has so many benefits I cannot possibly list them all here in this blog post. Each asana (pose) has a list of health benefits that range from physical to mental & emotional. Yoga is partly science and you can take yourself through a sequence of poses designed for almost any purpose you may need or desire on any given day.
But for me, a large part of the draw is this; if I take care of my body and my mind I will be able to grow old without pain in my body. I will live a long, healthy & happy life. I will experience a deep connection to how I'm feeling at any given moment because I'm aware of the delicate flow of my breath. This same awareness of my breath helps me to find clarity when I need it, this same awareness of the breath can help me relieve headaches, fatigue, body tension & stress without taking pills or medication. Yoga helps to develop strength of both body & mind, a balanced lifestyle, and flexibility in how you approach life and your body functions.
I have seen too many people suffer. They suffer with poor body image and self medicate by popping pills for aches & pains both large & small. I have seen too many people suffer with addiction to foods & substances that kill their body from the inside out. I have seen the epidemic of obesity in the United States, which is unlike anywhere else in the world because people don't care about what they put in their bodies. I saw my own Mammie suffer tremendously with pain as a result of arthritis that was crippling and as I rubbed the medicated lotion on her knees which were swollen to the size of melons, I vowed to myself that it wouldn't happen to me.
My medicine...I choose yoga.
So let me clear up some of these misconceptions; yoga is not a cult, and it's not a religion, although for some it becomes a spiritual practice. Please, until you've tried it several times with several different teachers, don't call me "one of those people."

Friday, November 18, 2011

Let's go to the movies! (4 months in Thailand!)

I have this habit of singing this tune whenever I go to the movies. If you asked Fuad, he would probably say it's annoying, but lucky for me he never complains.
I got to hum my little tune last night as we went to the movies for the first time in Chiang Mai!
We went with our friend from my school, Sara. She's really good company and she's lived here a long time, so she's a good person to hang out with, she's really considerate that we haven't lived here so long, so we may need some direction with how certain things work (like the movies).
So we headed off to the Central Airport Plaza otherwise known as "Centran" to the locals since the "L" sound is not one used in the Thai language. (This reminds me of this sound they have that we don't "ng" at the beginning of words, like the word for work "thahm-ngaan", really hard to get it just right) Anyway, back to Centran, think megamall...and remember the parking situation I described in a much earlier blog? We ended up parking by Meijers 50 acres (that's a joke only my parents will get...) then headed inside to the theater. There are a few bonuses here, When you buy your ticket, you get to choose your seat, there are multiple price levels, we went for the 180Bht price point ($6.00 per person) which got got us a very cushy recliner, nice!
After getting tickets we had dinner at the mall 800Bht ($30 for 3 people), then back to the theater for the movie, this evenings selection, In Time, but before the movie starts, commercials, pre-views and the Royal Anthem, for which everyone stands. (You may find this interesting, everyday the National Anthem is played at 8:00 am & 6:00 pm, in public spaces as well as on tv. Personally, I find the sense of nationalism here inspiring and at least everyone knows the songs. I've taught many a lesson on the Star Spangled Banner and I can't believe how many kids & adults in the States don't know the words or the true meaning of the song)
Going to the movies was just what I needed! Now that we know the process, I'm sure we'll be back again soon!
Today marks 4 months in Thailand and I'm pleased to report that I'm finally feeling grounded here. I'm finding my way...I'm establishing routines...I'm happy.

Saturday, October 29, 2011

Thai Holiday from Bangkok to Koh Samui

Fuad & I plan to do as much traveling as possible while we're here. We decided to travel domestic for our first trip and explore one of the many islands in Southern Thailand, Koh Samui...but first, a few days in Bangkok.

The view from Vertigo was awesome! Really expensive though, we only had 1 drink.



Our first day on Koh Samui it rained...


The beach at Kamalaya, the second resort where we stayed.


I was able to catch this incredible sunset from our room!


Fuad relaxing on one of our last days of vacation.


Thursday, October 27, 2011

Up the Mountain...finally!

I don't think I could live in a place that doesn't hold some sort of natural beauty. I realize that beauty is in the eye of the beholder and we can make it our intention to seek beauty everywhere, like choosing to see the good in everyone we encounter... I've always felt that having a body of water or a mountain helps. We've all felt it in one place or another...standing in the midst of something magnificent and having that moment where time stands still and you are struck at the wonderment...of the existence of something greater than ourselves. The moment where "I am small" crosses your mind.
I just finished reading Siddhartha and I'm reminded where at the end of the book, Siddhartha explains to his lifelong friend, Govinda, that once you start to put these thoughts into words, they immediately begin to loose their meaning. "Wisdom is not communicable. The wisdom which a wise man tries to communicate always sounds foolish...Knowledge can be communicated, but not wisdom..." Acknowledging that something greater than yourself exists in nature is the wisdom I'm attempting to convey.
It's how I feel right now, in this moment as I write this blog, sitting near the ocean on Koh Samui, the sound of the ocean waves crashing on the shore, the horizon extends out before me, in the distance there are mountains covered in lush jungle, the gentle breeze caressing my skin, my love by my side.
Chiang Mai is surrounded by a ring of mountains, which is one of the reasons why I decided that I could live there. From almost everywhere in the valley, in all directions, you can see the mountain in the distance. I'm completely fascinated by it. It changes from day to day, sometimes it even changes mood throughout the day and in the evenings, the sun sinks down behind it.
Similar to Lake Michigan, having had the experience of living on both sides I know how it shifts moods, how it can be a place of serene reflection and also tumultuous & filled with anger, it can be cold & icy and warm & inviting.
Back to this mountain in Chiang Mai...the longer we were here and didn't make the journey up this mountain, the more distant and illusive it became. Truth is, I had a fear. Driving up the mountain, just Fuad & I required that we take it on Perry, our scooter. Now I'm comfortable riding the scooter around town, to & from work, which is basically flat land but riding the scooter up a mountain is another story. (Actually, there is another story...we rented a scooter while on our honeymoon in Bali and since I hadn't driven one since I was about 13 years old up & down Desmond Street, I did crash. Fuad on the back, I totally crashed with a group of Balinese men as spectators. Lucky for me, the only injury was my pride & a bloody elbow. I had no choice, I had to get back up on the scooter and get us to our destination, Dream Beach. I also had to get us back to the shop where we had rented the bike. We did have to pay a fee by the way, for damages done to the scooter.)
It took us 3 months to get there, we had a day with beautiful weather, we started the journey up the mountain and after a few minutes I shouted to Fuad on the back, "you know that quote by Eleanor Roosevelt? The one about doing something everyday that scares you?! Now I understand why!!! This is awesome! I'm so glad we decided to do this today!"
It was amazing, the view of Chiang Mai spectacular, the temple at the top was potent, the waterfalls along the way inspiring...and honestly, I can't wait to go back up there and see some more! No longer a fear but an experience of growth & a moment in time spent in wonder.
Here are a few of my pictures from the day and an interesting story about how the temple found it's home near the top of this mountain. Doi Suthep








Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Hair


When I was a little girl, I was in LOVE with a book called "The Hair Book." My Dad had it in the back room of his salon, Best Impressions, the place where I spent countless hours of my childhood. Yes, my Dad is a hairdresser, so is my Mom. Growing up in a salon made for an interesting childhood, an even more interesting adolescence and if I'm being perfectly honest, it still impacts my perceptions of beauty, vanity, style and goes even so far as to make conclusions about how you feel about yourself.
You may be able to tell that over the years I have spent a chunk of time analyzing this experience of growing up in a service industry which is based on how you look. Spending so much time in front of mirrors during your awkward stages of life is bound to have an impact! But let me share with you what I loved about this unique growing up experience.
My Dad had a crew of regular clients, these woman came weekly for their standing appointments and watched me grow up...they became like family. When I was younger, I brought them coffee made to order & I would walk around with a pad of paper and pen and ask for autographs. I always wanted to be up front, near the cash register where I could pretend to be the shop owner and take money, but when I got too loud & obnoxious, my Dad would come & get me and without saying a word he would pinch & twist my upper arm and lead me all the way to the back room where I would have my "timeout" (although my folks never called it that.) I always had a crew of folks to buy whatever I was selling for band and when I got a little older, (following in my cousin Corey's footsteps) my Dad hired me to work for pay. On Saturdays (his busiest day) I made $20, I emptied trash, cleaned brushes, answered the phone, took out rollers, brought coffee, picked up lunch, made appointments & took money. I know it's these experiences working at Best Impressions that helped give me a strong work ethic & to enjoy the company of people, people of all ages.
I also had the latest hair style! I was getting my hair permed and highlighted before I was out of elementary school! I had it all, asymmetrical hair, big hair, short hair, bangs, no bangs, blonde, brown, red, extensions, the list goes on, just like the characters in The Hair Book!
So I just had my first Thai salon experience with Franck at fan fan salon in Bangkok. (Thanks Nadia for the recommendation!) Franck is actually French and comes to Bangkok via Hong Kong via Sydney via Casablanca and he was amazing! After my consultation with him (I needed to fix my color because I had tried to do it myself and actually made my hair orangish, yuck!) where we discussed color & cut, a small army of Thai folks started the services. I had 3 people putting the color on! I kept thinking about how Dad has done this by himself for 40 plus years! One person held my hair in place, one person prepared the foils and the 3rd person painted the color on my hair. A different person washed my hair, then Franck made his entrance and in a flurry of activity he sculpted my hair, a different person blew it dry, Franck returned to style it & put the finishing touches on & I loved it! I couldn't wait to share this experience with my folks.
It's amazing how good you feel after getting a new do! New country, new job, new life, time for a new hair do!

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Doing things Mammie's way


That's my Mammie, my paternal grandmother who grew up picking cotton in the hot sun of Tennessee. I knew her as mule-headed, because she insisted on doing things herself and in her own way. (In Mammie speak, that means stubborn, you know, like a mule, which I have also been accused of being) She lived to be 95 years old...
With the guidance and urging of my Aunt Hilda, I had the honor and privilege (although I will admit at times it felt like torture) of living with Mammie for about 6 weeks in the summer of 2007. Growing up I never completely understood why she did some of the things she did, but I came to appreciate these quirks and even now & here, away from the world that Mammie knew, I appreciate her some more. You see, Mammie grew up a child of the depression, she was born in 1914! She worked hard for everything she had, times where really tough back then. Kind of like now in some ways. People didn't know if they'd have work or where their food would come from, so they spent & saved wisely.
Several weeks ago, while washing dishes, Mammie came to mind...I think I did it because of the ants, I had a tub that fits into the kitchen sink, I would rinse the dishes, then put them in the tub with clean, soapy water for washing. Since ants can't swim, I was able to keep them away from the sink area. I washed the dishes and then rinsed them all at the same time. I saved water and since we pay for our water here (which we never had to do in Chicago) I'm also saving us money. Mammie would approve, especially since this is exactly how she did the dishes.
Mammie also had a green thumb and when she lived on State Street in St. Joe, she had a garden in her back yard, she grew tomatoes, cucumbers & green beans. (As far as I recall..)
So naturally Mammie came up again today when I collected our first, what I call farm share, but here they call community supported agriculture or CSA. There's a group of folks at CMIS (the school where I work) who participate and it couldn't be easier. I paid 200 baht (just under $10) for a box of locally grown produce. On a weekly basis, they drop it off at the front gate of the school, all I have to do is return the box for next week. This week our box had a huge bunch of bananas, several eggplant, a pumpkin, morning glory greens, 2 kinds of green beans and tons of leafy greens which I'm going to use for salad. I was thrilled to come home with my new treasures and while going through the meditative process of cleaning, cutting and preparing I was caught in thought once more about my Mammie and the way things used to be. This produce that I brought home today was probably picked yesterday and I prepared and ate some of it already today. Fresh from the earth at the farm into my belly the very next day. As I prepared the food, I was thinking how simple the meal was going to be, yet how excited I was to eat it. Yes, simple is ok, actually it's more than ok! This evening I ate...sauteed morning glories with garlic & soy sauce, steamed green beans, a hard boiled egg and white rice. It was simple, delicious and filling! I have already made my lunch for tomorrow and have enough lettuce for several more salads, that 200 baht is going to last a long way!
Now, I just need to convince my husband that composting won't attract roaches! Mammie did that too by the way, only she had a different name for it.
Let's all take this lesson from Mammie, take what you need and use it all.

Monday, October 3, 2011

Have I mentioned how much I love Thai massage?


Traditional Thai massage is found on practically every street corner here. I'm not kidding, there are massage places everywhere. Thai massage, foot massage & spa treatments which include aroma oil massages & herbal hot compress and then there's the seedy side as well, perhaps you've heard the phrase "happy ending?" Not that I know from experience, but I've heard they exist.
The setting is different than we think of in a Western style massage business, for Thai massage you wear very loose fitting & comfortable clothes and you may get rubbed in a large room along with several other people or you may have slightly more privacy with a curtain that draws around the bed.
There are foot massage places where you're just out in the open getting your feet rubbed. At the Sunday walking market in Chiang Mai there are practically 100 chairs lined up along one of the roads with the ladies ready to give you your massage. I've never been around a culture of people so open & willing to relax so freely in public, it still makes me smile. One of the best parts all this rubbing & relaxing...most of the services are the equivalent of $10 or less! Whoa!
The catch is this...I really think Thai massage is an acquired taste. Rather than rubbing along the length of your muscles, searching for knots & kinks, it's more like a pressing, sometimes painfully hard along the subtle energy lines of the body. In America, most people prefer to have their backs & shoulders worked on, but here they spend a large portion of the time on your legs and only spend a short amount of time working on the back.
I've found a place close to our mooban that I really like, the price is right, it's clean, you can walk right in...I've built a rapport with a lady there, her name Suenee. If Suenee is not available, I almost feel bad for the whoever gets me, I'm holding Suenee at the top, the standard to which all others are compared. Interestingly, part of what I love about her technique was her rhythm, (something I'm finely tuned into) her touch is so steady and does not vary for the entire process, it has an incredibly grounding effect on both my body & mind. I've been going once or twice a week for about a month. I wanted to see if I could tell a difference in my body. One thing I've learned is that it really depends on who is working on me and what I bring into the room with you from my day. Honestly, I've had a few massages where it feels like I'm pressing back against her as she presses into me, those are the painful ones. When I'm able to relax and breathe, the massage can be incredibly relaxing and I feel that it's a perfect compliment to a regular yoga practice. I'm working on some of the same things while getting a massage as I am during my yoga practice, breathing & whatever the sensations I'm feeling in my body, staying present.
I feel so blessed to be in a position to experience this healing art as a a regular part of my life here.

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

What's Goin' On?

Some of our readers have been commenting on the lack of posts...I try to let this process be organic, so I'm not sitting down to forcing myself to write, but rather letting a topic or idea come up. I've also noticed that a lot of my posts tend to communicate frustration, sadness and all the things I miss about America, so I'm trying to leave some space to let the joy of Thailand make its way into my heart.
Let me re-cap a few interesting things from this week (so far.) I got a flat front tire on Perry (our scooter) on Monday as I was driving home from school. As soon as I pulled out of the lot, I could feel it, so I pulled over to take a look and assessed that I could probably make it closer to home before stopping to see about getting it fixed. Well, pretty soon the handlebars where shaking quite a bit so I decided to go very slow and recalled that there is a shop that looks like they do bike repairs nearby (still on the way home) Remember, signs are not written in English and for places like this you kind of just have to know about them, I actually don't think this place had a sign at all. I turned the corner, pulled in and discovered I was correct, bike repair shop! It didn't matter that the guy & I couldn't communicate verbally, he knew why I was there. A head nod and a gesture to take a seat...a short wait while I watched the entire process, him tracing the numbers on the seat of my bike to tell me how much it was...and I was back on the road. It was 150 baht by the way ($4.83) In total, it took about 10 minutes. As I was sitting there I thought about this mom & pop tire place in Humboldt Park, Chicago, near Duprey School where I used to work. These are the types of places where you feel like you have to be kind of brave to even drive up, but they do quick work for really cheap. That tire place in Humboldt Park got me back on the road quickly more than once and you're not paying prices for the name, you're placing cash into the hand of the man who did the work and that feels good to me.
Second event of the week? Yesterday my school was evacuated due to flooding of the nearby Ping River. The river has been high for awhile, but Tuesday night it rained, I mean it really poured for hours, I think it was most of the night and into the morning on Wednesday. I'm not certain, but it may have been pouring for 8 hours...at 10:30ish Wednesday I was told the school was thinking about closing for the rest of the day, by 11:00 most of the kids where on their
way out the door, by noon I left with Sue (I got a ride to work yesterday because of the heavy rain.) First stop, the grocery store, I made it home by 1:00 and by 2:00 pictures were popping up on facebook, the river peaked and overflowed onto streets and middle of the night into houses. Having just gone through this, I don't envy those folks near the river who are now house-bound because of the water. It's nasty, it smells and it lingers. School was also canceled today and possibly tomorrow as well.
I'm feeling grateful that right now our neighborhood is safe and since the water hasn't made it's way into Suan Non Sri as of yet, we're probably in the clear this time.
Friends have been asking if this amount of flooding is normal. From what I've heard, it's not. The Ping River hasn't flooded in 6 years and this moobaan hadn't flooded in much longer than that. The major contributing factor is the unusually long rainy season they've had this year, I've heard that it started very early, in April.
It doesn't matter where you are...sometimes nature takes over. This past winter in Chicago, we experienced the heaviest snow fall in decades! We move half way across the world and experience the longest rainy season in years. I enjoyed those snow days! It felt like I had been given a free pass to do absolutely nothing and I loved it! I'm enjoying my flood days too (even though I don't actually have water at my house.) After doing some yoga, I plan to enjoy a flood day massage!
Baxter checking out the snow after the blizzard in Chicago...February 2011


Interesting documentation of the river rising...


And a rather dramatic version...

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Home is where the heart is...or something like that


For those of you wondering, things are getting better here. Each week, I'm feeling more & more settled in, yes, there's the word; settled. My stomach is adjusting, I'm still not taking naps, but I sleep really well at night and I'm starting to find my way around the city. I challenge myself to drive somewhere new each time Fuad goes out of town for work (this week he's in Singapore and today I got myself to the Big C, which is kind of like Walmart.)

Before we left people asked loads of questions about our housing situation, and at the time I didn't know many of the answers, now I do. Our house is basically in a suburb...GASP! (Or at least that's how it feels to me.) Even though it's only a 10-15 minute drive from here to my school, which is in town. We live off a highway in the 2nd oldest mooban (neighborhood) in Chiang Mai, there are about 200 houses here. When you enter the mooban, you see many different kinds of housing structures, some are more traditional, there are some row-type homes, a few are quite large with guest quarters and gigantic yards. No matter the type of house, they all have a gate. One thing I noticed right away here is the number of dogs roaming around. You hear people refer to them as "soi dogs" (soi means street.) Some of them have owners who let them run free and some live outside within the confines of the gated yard, it seems like very few actually live inside, like Baxter! Sometimes the soi dogs spontaneously bark at the exact same time, from different yards and streets and end at precisely the same moment. It's creepy...
Our house is a 2 story with 3 bedrooms & 3 bathrooms. Fuad is using the 3rd bedroom as his home office since he's working from home 3 days a week. Our master bedroom has a patio and a king size bed. Downstairs is a large space where the living room and dining room connect. Some people back in the States wanted to know if the house was furnished and what kind of other things were included.
I would call this house partially furnished. It came with 2 beds, 2 wardrobes for the bedrooms, (usually there are no built in closets) a dining table that seats 6 and a set of rattan furniture (loveseat, 2 chairs and a table.) In the kitchen, a fridge (of course) and an oven/stove (which is not typical) The house does not have a dishwasher or a clothes washer. All the windows have curtains, they are all the same, off-white, the walls are also all off-white. No dishes, pots & pans or garbage cans came in the house.
In the time we have been here (2 months today) we have purchased...
2 sets of king-sized sheets
1 set of queen sheets (for guest bedroom)
plates, bowls, glassware, silverware, dish rack, knife set, blender, toaster, coffee maker, iron & ironing board, speakers
rugs & towels
cleaning tools & supplies
floor fan, lamps, hampers
a sofa, coffee table, shelf, floor cushions, desk & book shelf
storage for bathroom, rattan dresser for master bedroom
Ok, I think that's about it, wow! Wait...and a scooter with 2 helmets & a trunk! Setting up house has been exhausting! All of this new stuff and I keep thinking about what we left behind, what we don't have here with us, I find myself thinking about items that we packed away in storage, now in my Grandma's basement. There are items that Fuad & I currently own, that would be great to have in our new house, only thing is...they're half way across the world.
I just asked this question on facebook, "what makes your house a home?" and quite a few people have responded... Books, candles, wifi, something homemade, something baking, people you love, art & pictures hanging on the walls, music, plants & fresh flowers. I agree with all of you! I've been loving our new house and I've been enjoying setting up here & picking out new things. When everything feels too overwhelming, when I'm seeking solitude & comfort, I want this space to be our home, not just our house. I want it to feel safe & cozy, a place of refuge.
Last week, Fuad & I had dinner at the home of our new friend, Sara. As soon as I walked into her space I could feel the warmth, love & care she spent setting up her home, it was lovely. I looked around and sat in her space taking note of what it was that made it feel so nice. What did she have that we didn't have? Candles, a fluffy rug, and art & pictures hanging on the walls. Sara took me to a store that has these things and I'm happy to say that as of this evening, we have candles burning and some stuff on the walls!
(side note: I'd like to share that I packed some pictures in my suitcase, but not frames because they're too heavy and it turns out that frames are pretty expensive here. Also, that something as simple as hanging a picture on the wall seemed challenging because the walls are all concrete, not drywall, so I was thinking we needed drill in order to hang pictures, thanks to Sara, I discovered 3M Command strips, which basically work like velcro! Brilliant! Thanks Sara!)
Here are a few things I hung up this evening!
These posters were a going away gift from some of our favorite yoga students! They remind me of home because they're vintage ad posters for the South Shore Train, which I used to take home from Chicago to Michigan for many years. I hung them in the hallway by the bedrooms.

In our living room I hung these elephant paintings that Fuad & I picked out & purchased together. We loved seeing the elephants so much we wanted to have something to remember them!

Friday, September 16, 2011

CMIS Campus

Me! In my classroom.
(Notice the hair flip, that's what I'm talking about...it's from my scooter helmet, drives me crazy!)

The doorway to my classroom, I'm on a corner, so 2 walls with windows. The cabinet under the windows is where the kids take their shoes off before coming into the music room.

Around the corner from me is the secondary music room, really he has is own little building. It's cute, you can tell there are students inside learning because of the shoes lined up outside the door. He teaches band and choir.

This is the view of the other end of campus. My room is pretty much the farthest room away! When this field is dry, the kids play football (soccer) during recess there.

This is an example of the hallway, everything is open-air, but covered in case of rain. The elementary art room is here, along with a weight room and the cafeteria.

The cafeteria, I eat here everyday for breakfast and lunch. I can eat both meals with snacks and thai iced tea for about 65bht (that's about $2.10) per day! The food is made fresh and there's usually about 7 food choices for lunch.

On the way home I captured another expressive sky. Looks like a cloud fist pumping up out of the mountain.